Chips
Q.
How does a chip change work?
A. Your cars engine is controlled by electronics. The electronic
control unit (ECU) takes signals from the engine through sensors, then
decides what ignition advance and fueling to provide, depending on load
(throttle) speed (rpm) and various other parameters such as temperature.
The manufacturer will have spent millions
developing the car, ECU included and you can bet that it is pretty well
sorted as standard. However, it will be set up for a compromise between
performance and economy. By swapping the chip for one with different
parameters ie. more fuel and different ignition advance, the idea is
that you can gain some performance.
Q. Does chipping
my car actually work?
A. The short answer to this is not usually. Normally the manufacturer
has things pretty well sorted from the start. There are some exceptions,
such as the Mi16 which runs a bit lean in the mid-range as standard.
This was for better fuel economy for the fleet market. You can remove
some flat spots with a 'SuperChip', but don't expect miracles! You will
get better value for money and better results by modifying the traditional
way: induction kit and exhaust; gas flowed head and cam. In addition,
spend the money first on making sure your engine components are in good
condition: plugs, leads, distributor cap and arm etc.
Q. I have heard
of the 'UniChip'. Is this the same as chipping?
A. No, don't confuse this with chipping. The UniChip sits piggy
back on your existing ECU and can be fully programmed by a rolling road
operator. It is ideal when you have had some modifications to your engine,
which go beyond the capabilities of your existing ECU. The UniChip can
be programmed to provide exactly the fueling and ignition advance that
your new modifications need - with superb results.
Engine
Conversions
Q. I have seen the 205 with an Mi16 engine installed. What is involved?
A. This conversion can be completed by any competent mechanic. There
are several main areas to consider:
1. The base car - start with a GTi model as this has the easiest specification
to work with. If you start with a non-GTi model you will have a non-injection
wiring loom, inadequate front suspension (the design is different and
you will need to swap to a GTi sub-frame assembly to change this) and
narrow wheel arches. You will also have fewer engine ancillaries that
can be re-used. The GTi suspension and braking capabilities are easily
able to cope with the 16v power.
2. The donor
16v engine - make sure you buy an engine with all the ancillaries, plumbing,
wiring, ECU and other control components you need. These are costly
to source separately. Your requirements will depend on how you intend
to run the engine (see below). Unless you know the engine history, it
is worth at least fitting a new set of valve stem seals, head gasket
and cam belt. Also fit a new clutch while the gearbox is off.
3. Fitting the engine - drop the old engine out under the car. Mate
the 16v to the 205 gearbox. Use a 1600 gearbox for lower ratios, 1900
for higher top speed and more relaxed motorway work. Note that the 1600
has different driveshafts and hubs to the 1900, so swapping gearboxes
means swapping these as well. Lift the 16v up into the engine bay. The
engine mounts are the same.
4. The exhaust manifold - the Mi16 exhaust manifold hits the 205 bulkhead.
You can cut and fold back the bulkhead lip and re-shape the bulkhead
behind the manifold to relieve this. You can also shorten the bottom
engine mount, but consider this a temporary fix as it can cause oil
starvation problems under heavy cornering. For the best job and better
power, buy a bespoke manifold or have one made up.
5. The radiator - you will need to make up some brackets to drop the
radiator away from the 16v inlet manifold, if you run the engine on
its standard injection. If you run sidedraught carbs, there is no need
to do this. You can buy (or make) a shorter 16v inlet manifold to save
moving the radiator - the choice is yours and based on economics.
6. The plumbing - you will need to use a combination of 205 and Mi16
coolant hoses to connect everything up, including the Mi16 water cooled
oil cooler (you could use the 205 1900 air cooled oil cooler) and 205
header tank.
7. The wiring - there are two ways to approach this. Firstly, you can
retain the 205 engine loom but you will need a distributor conversion
plate to use the 205 distributor. There are several disadvantages with
this: you have to buy a conversion plate; you are running with the 8v
ECU and therefore the 8v fueling and ignition settings and you have
to have the rev limiter disabled in the 8v ECU as it cuts in before
maximum power from the 16v engine! My preferred method is to use the
16v engine loom and Motronic 4.1 ECU. This requires an amount of wiring
in, but you end up with a very professional conversion, using all the
original Mi16 ancillaries and control systems.
8. Enjoy harassing innocent drivers of more exotic machinery!
Induction
Kits and Filters
Q. What does an induction kit do?
A. An induction kits improves the airflow into your engine. The primary
aim of any performance modification is to get more fuel and air into
your engine. The induction kit does this by providing a more direct
route for the air, into the inlet manifold. Also, a high quality cotton
gauze filter allows more air through. Usually this is from a better
position at the front of the car to take advantage of the cooler, denser
airflow.
Q. Do induction
kits give more power?
A. Yes, induction kits do work. They are particularly good when combined
with other modifications such as a high performance exhaust or gas flowed
head and cam. Don't expect miracles when fitted on their own, but you
will see more power.
Q. Are there any other benefits in fitting an induction kit, besides
more power?
A. Yes, the kit removes the need for the standard air box and pipework,
giving a neater underbonnet look. It also makes servicing and maintenance
easier, as there is less in the way. Also, the cotton gauze filters
such as Green and K&N are cleanable for an indefinite life.
Q. Will there
be any problems if I fit an induction kit?
A. No, but you need to be aware that the engine will be noisier under
acceleration. This is because the manufacturers installation is removed
and much of this is designed to reduce noise and resonance. However,
you will have the benefit of a much sportier induction sound - ideal
for the car enthusiast.
Q. Can I fit
an induction kit myself?
A. Yes, induction kits are easy to fit and always come with full instructions.
Q. If I don't
want to remove the manufacturers system, are there any alternatives?
A. Yes, you can fit a high performance replacement filter. These improve
air flow through their better quality cotton gauze construction.
Q. Why don't
I just run without an air filter for maximum power?
A. Never be tempted to run without filters. Your engine will suck in
dust and dirt particles which will wear away the mechanical components
very quickly. That's if you are lucky enough not to suck in a stone
which will cause immediate engine failure. Good quality filters do not
significantly reduce airflow so there is no excuse for not running an
air filter - even on a race car.
Suspension
and Lowering
Q. Do I have to change the standard shock absorbers if I fit lowered
or uprated springs?
A. You can get away with keeping the standard shock absorbers when you
fit lowered or uprated springs. However, the handling, roadholding and
ride will not be optimised. For best results, fit a quality suspension
kit because the springs and dampers will have been designed and tested
as a set for optimum performance.
Q. If I fit
lowered springs, do I have to have the torsion bars adjusted?
A. Yes, you must
have the torsion bars re-set to match the new ride height at the front.
Most Peugeots run torsion bar rear suspension. This set up is designed
to be very compact and give lots of rear seat space, whilst giving excellent
control of the trailing arms. Make sure you know what you are doing
here, or take it to someone who does, or you could end up with a different
height each side. The torsion bars must be fully released from their
splined locations at both ends of each bar (after removing the anti-roll
bar and rear dampers etc.). This allows the trailing arms to droop freely.
The adjustment must be made by measuring the length of the shock absorber
mounting points - 'dummy shock absorbers' should be used for accuracy,
and to hold the trailing arms in place during re-fitting of the torsion
bars. There is a ratio to consider for the reduced ride height to damper
mounting distance - ie. if you want to lower by 30mm, don't reduce the
damper mounting distance by 30mm or your car will be sat on its sills!
The torsion bars should be spun round and tested at each spline location
until the best sliding fit is located. Common mistakes include:
1. Attempting to adjust the ride height with one end of each torsion
bar still fixed in place. Result - one side higher than the other.
2. Not replacing all the bolts and adjusters when re-assembling. Result
- incorrect tolerance at trailing arm bearings and dangerous rear suspension.
3. Lowering too far. Make sure that there is still sufficient suspension
travel at the rear, before the trailing arms hit the bump stops. You
will have seen many Peugeots with the rear wheels right up in the arches:
looks cool, but they effectively have no operable rear suspension, resulting
in appalling handling.
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